By Randal S. Gaulke
Photographs of the Germans in their wooded camps abound in history books, and one can even see traces of the some camps when walking through the woods along the Western Front. Yet there are only a handful of camps that have been restored, and the Moreaulager is one of them. (Note: The German noun Lager means camp. In this case, a camp in the Moreau Valley.) Touring this restored camp, the pictures come to life, and one can almost hear the German Soldaten singing their Heimatlieder in the relative comfort that a camp would provide.
The Moreaulager was constructed in February
1915 by Landwehr-Infanterie-Regiment Nr. 83. This unit occupied it from
February 1915 until the American advance in September 1918.
It is situated just West of the D 63 in the east-west running Moreau ravine, a few km south of Binarville. For most of the war, this ravine was approximately 1km (0.6 miles) behind (i.e. north of) the German front lines, forming part of the rear lines of German resistance. Typically, one of the regiment's 3 battalions--or about 850 - 1,000 men--would have occupied the camp at any one time. The regiment's other two battalions would have been forward in the front and intermediate lines.
As one can see from the site plan below, the Moreaulager was quite a complex. It consisted of numerous corrugated iron shelters built into the hillside. These were connected by a maze of underground galleries, providing shelter during artillery bombardments and a second exit in case of a collapse. In addition, the lager had a Brigade HQ (Brig. Gefechtsst.), electric generators (Licht Zentr.), bathing and de-lousing facilities (Bade- u. Entl. Anstalt), and its own well (Brunnen). The plan also shows a supply depot (Quellengebiet) serviced by a narrow gauge railroad that ran under the adjacent road and to the camp on the other side.
The task of restoring this camp is done by the Comité Franco allemand, a local association that is also maintaining other sites in the region. It appears to be a labor of love for the group’s members, as they work pretty much every Saturday, weather permitting.
A friend and I joined them in early November 2004 for one of their workdays. On this particular day, two teams of workers were attempting to re-open the long-blocked entrances to the underground galleries located in the rear of two of the corrugated iron shelters. We had partial success in our shelter: We did succeed in opening much of the original downward sloping stairwell. However, a very large, unstable rock on the right-hand side of the entrance still made entry dangerous. The next step will require the removal of this rock and the shoring up of the sides of the tunnel entrance. There is also blockage a few meters past the rock, although this cannot be seen in the photograph below. Thus, more clearing will be needed before the connection to the underground gallery can be re-established. And all of this is done by hand with a shovel and wheelbarrow!
Fighting the forces of nature can be just as hard as moving tons of rock. In December 1999 Northeastern France was ravaged by a particularly violent gale, and much of the restoration work was destroyed. According to one German friend, it took a few years to remove the downed trees and repair the damage that happened in just a few days.
Going back to the topic of Saturday workdays, I would strongly encourage readers to take part in such restoration activities with the Comité or with other groups in the region. We had a thoroughly enjoyable day, and I think the members were impressed (and surprised) that we showed up willing to work: We did not just want a tour of their camp.
On
this particular Saturday we worked from 9:00am until around 1:30 - 2:00pm, when
most of the members packed up. We were told that they tend to stay all day on
good summer days. Following the advice of the group’s leader, who I contacted
in advance, we brought our own water and “field rations” that consisted of
baguettes, ham, cheese, etc.
We overcame the language difference in two ways: My English friend Alan speaks pretty good French, so he did a lot of translating. Also, the Comité is headed by Lorraine-born Mr. Roger Berdold, who speaks both French and German. Thus, I was able to talk to him in German.
The lager is not open to the general public without appointment. However, two-hour tours for groups of 5 or more people can be arranged through the Comité. The tours include visiting the underground galleries. (Note: If you do not have the minimum five people required, I would suggest you still contact them and see if you can drop in on a working Saturday, or if you can pay extra and still arrange a tour. The price is 3,50€ (Euros) for adults. Children 12 and under are free. To arrange a tour, call this number: 011-33-3-26 50 49 40. As an alternative, you can contact Mr. Roger Berdold (who speaks French and German) at this number: 011-33-3-26 60 33 19; Fax: 011-33-3-26 60 81 03; or this email: cdpac@wanadoo.fr. You can also write to him at: Mr. Roger Berdold, Comité Franco allemand, Mairie de Vienne le Château, 51800 Vienne le Château, France.
As an alternative, consider becoming a member. Annual dues are only 12,00€.
The information below describes two other tours of sites in the area that are maintained by the Comité Franco allemand.
